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Deogarh - Fort of the Gods - and Chanderi stand either side of the Betwa river on the main route to the Deccan. For nine centuries, armies with caravans in their wake have moved through this region, power shifting back and forth between Hindu and Muslim, each breaking and building a new. Within its ancient, broken curtain walls lie the remains of over 30 Jain temples, dating back mostly to the 9th and 10th centuries but in one case, a Varaha temple dedicated to the boar incarnation of Vishnu, probably dating as far back as the 5th century. Just below the fort in a field by a well, not far from the banks of the Betwa, is the jewel of Deogarh. Here a gigantic black-painted statue of Shantinath, one of the Jain pontiffs whose symbol, as at Gwalior, is an Antelope. Worshippers still make the pilgrimage to venerate the gods of Deogarh, as they have done for 1500 years. Babur, first of the Mughal Emperor, took this title when he took Chanderi in 1528. The outer walls of the fort are granite formations : the breach made by Babur's guns is clearly visible. Chanderi had been well established as a strategic holding by the 10th century, when it was controlled by the Pratihara kings.
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